- Day's Distance: 71.42 Miles
- Total Distance:758.80 Miles
- Time: 6 Hrs 51 Mins
- Average Speed: 10.4 Miles/Hr
- Max Speed: 29.5 Miles/Hr
- Punctures: 0
I did not have a good nights sleep. At about 3:00 in the morning, another tent pole snapped, under the same duty (front arch) and almost the same place as the last time. I was so angry and frustrated I could not get back to sleep for hours. I eventually woke in the morning quite late and set off.
After Callander the road began to wind upward - this was the start of the highlands after all. The climb that I had been anticipating eventually came up and as I began the long climb, a local shouted "You've got a long pull ahead of you there!" and I agreed with him. After 4 miles of struggles the road began to move downwards and the descent I had long anticipated began. The first 3/4 mile was fine and then I turned the corner at the Killin turn off and the headwind hit me. The remaining 6 miles of descent was a struggle at 7 or 8mph. Half way down I stopped for lunch in a place unusual only in that the chaos that usually occurs in a restaurant's kitchen took place in the public arena with the staff 'discussing' which table needed what and who was going to do it.
Crianlarich was my minimum distance that I had set for the day and when I reached it shortly after lunch I felt I had no option but to continue.
The road continued upward until coming to an impressive valley with a bridge at the far end followed by a huge climb. I started going up at a steady pace, which is just as well because when I got to what I thought was the top, the road continued it's upward trend. And so it continued until I hit a sign which told me I was on the top of Rannoch Moor at 1141 feet. I took the obligatory photographs and as I was putting my camera away I realised I was starting to feel cold.
So began my long struggle on the moor, with a strong head wind against me I could barely manage to keep going - averaging only 5-6mph. I had 15 miles to go, it was after 6:00pm and already starting to get dark from the heavy cloud hanging just above head height.
Eventually I could see the beginning of the descent in the far distance. My every effort was concentrated on keeping going and reaching that point while my mind looked around and wondered if I would end up having to camp up here in this desolate place. My hands and feet were numb. I could not use the fingers of my right hand to change gear as normal but put my hand over the gear lever and use my whole arm to move it in the appropriate direction. When I tried to move my left hand I found I couldn't, it was stuck with the handlebar grip it was so numb.
Finally my goal was reached. On a fine day with no wind, the descent would be fast, dramatic and exhilerating but today it was only a relief as I eventually wheeled into the National Trust Campsite at Glencoe. No pubs or resaurants nearby so I raided the shop to get a loaf of bread, tins of hot dog sausages, haggis and potatoes - what a feast!
Day 12 Map (Approximate route)
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